The Fair Play sub-region is an AVA that was established in 2001. It is a large region with a mix of well-established wineries (some of dubious quality) and some newcomers, many of which are very good. The region is the most remote and difficult to get to of the sub-regions we cover, but it is a fun region to explore and is worth the extra effort. There are not a lot of places to eat, so either pack a lunch or call ahead to the wineries you are visiting to see if they are offerings anything while you are there.
The Fair Play terroir is distinctive. Decomposed granite soils, layered with clay and loam, give rise to sometimes rich, often mineral-driven grapes that can be highly concentrated when yields are controlled. The summers and early falls can be extremely hot, but cool air from the Sierras drops down overnight to help maintain acidity in the grapes and lengthen the growing season. The North, Middle, and South Forks of the Cosumnes River and Perry Creek run through the region helping to modulate the temperature and producing numerous aspects and microclimates that provide many growing options and that can lead to complex blends.
Fair Play was originally a gold mining town (click here to see pictures of old Fair Play) located at the intersections of Perry Creek Rd and Idlewild Rd, just a quarter mile north of E16 Winery’s tasting room. The town was surrounded by numerous gold mines, the largest of which was the Slug Gulch mine not far from Bumgarner Winery. The old mines are now on private property (do not try to explore).
Highway E-16 (known here as Mount Aukum Road) runs north-south through the region connecting four east-west spurs. Most of the top-quality wineries are located along or near the Fairplay Rd and Perry Creek Rd loop. Just south, Omo Ranch Rd extends from E-16 to the east end of Fair Play Rd and is dotted with wineries with some exciting new ownership. Further south is Cedar Creek Rd with many high-quality vineyards. It is extremely off-the-beaten-path. At the northern end of the region is Grizzly Flat Road, home to several small wineries.
Mediterranean grape varieties dominate here, but others are showing great promise. Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah are particularly at home in the abundant sunshine. Some Zinfandels rival the more famous versions from Amador. High quality versions of Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties are on the rise. One of the big stars of the region is Petite Sirah, and some of the single varietal versions are as good as any on the planet. Unfortunately, because of its color and structure, it is sometimes overly blended into the wines of the region where its strong flavors and coarse tannins can dominate the wine. Fortunately, the modern trend is moving away from this, and beautiful examples of more subtle wines are now the shining stars of this up-and-coming region.
A note on the name: you will find it spelled both Fair Play and Fairplay thoughout history. It seems the town was originally the one word spelling (and Fairplay Rd remains that way), but the modern spelling is two words, and the official AVA is two words, so that's what we will go with here. So, Fairplay Rd is the main road running through the town of Fair Play and the Fair Play AVA, as confusing as that is. As for the name's origins, according to deep-rooted locals, the name was given to distinguish the new mining town from the nearby town of Hangtown (now Placerville), which was not reputed to be a place where fairness was evenly doled out.
9.00
Wine: 9.5 (Exceptional)
Intense and complex wines in several categories
Facilities: 9.0 (Excellent)
2 choices: Tasting Room in Camino, at Winery in Fair Play
Hospitality: 8.5 (Very good)
Very friendly staff
Reservations: Suggested
Pet Policy: Unknown, call ahead
Sustainability: Sustainable practices
Carbon Usage: Undisclosed
REGION: Fair Play AVA (El Dorado County)
7380 Vineyard View Dr
Somerset, CA 95684
(503) 957-7495
Wed-Thurs 12:00-4:00
Fri-Sun 11:00-5:00
Bumgarner Winery & Vineyards
Brian and Jennifer Bumgarner have been making some of the most highly regarded wines in El Dorado County for more than two decades.
At first, Brian sourced all of his grapes from various high quality vineyards across El Dorado County and rented production space to produce his wines. He maintained an exceptionally high quality level even then. Recently, the Bumgarners purchased their own vineyard and production facility atop Slug Gulch Ridge in Fair Play, and the quality has gotten even better, even though they've had to weather some challenging vintages, a raging wild fire that knocked on the door, and a global pandemic. They now operate a tasting room at their facility in addition to their original one in Apple Hill/Camino.
All of the Bumgarner wines are outstanding and span a wide range of varieties. They are famous for their Tempranillo, Barbera, and Zinfandel, all of which are amazing, but their Rhone and Bordeaux wines are equally as enchanting. Oh, and they also make perhaps the best hard apple cider in the Foothills.
8.83
Wine: 9.5 (Exceptional)
Crystal clear expressions of Fair Play terroir
Facilities: 8.5 (Excellent)
Tasting in a corner of production area, nice vineyard walks
Hospitality: 8.5 (Very good)
No frills, but you usually get to meet owner/winemaker
Reservations: By appointment only
Pet Policy: Unknown, call ahead
Sustainability: Organic
Carbon Usage: Undisclosed
REGION: Fair Play AVA (El Dorado County)
6320 Marestail Rd
Somerset, CA 95684
(503) 620-9463
By Appointment Only
Cedarville Vineyard
Jonathan Lachs and Susan Marks met at UC Davis studying enology, worked as winemakers in Napa and the Central Coast, and then in 1995 discovered Fair Play and its granitic soils and decided this is where they would set up their winery. Cedarville’s prized, organically grown grapes are used both in their estate wines and sold to elite producers in the Foothills and across the state.
Jonathan is very hands-on in both the vineyard and the cellar. Grapes are hand-harvested, carefully sorted, and processed in very small lots with minimal adjustments. The beauty of the grapes and the deft touch of a skilled and experienced winemaker result in wines that are truly reflective of the region. Cedarville bottles single-varietal wines that highlight the subtle and distinctive nature of the grape varieties in the Fair Play terroir, and two blends with enormous complexity.
Tragically, Susan passed away in 2020. Jonathan, though heart broken, carries on. He has created a line, the Susan Marie memorial wines, through which he fundraises for Pancreatic Cancer research.
Cedarville tastings are rare and by appointment only, so you will need to plan ahead. The upside, though, is that you are likely to have Jonathan himself guide you through the vineyard and the tasting lineup.
8.67
Wine: 8.5 (Very good)
Fun mix of conventional and unconventional wines
Facilities: 9.0 (Excellent)
Very nice tasting room and vineyard hikes on 70 acre property
Hospitality: 8.5 (Very good)
Friendly staff, nice pairing options
Reservations: Suggested
Pet Policy: Unknown, call ahead
Sustainability: Conventional farming practices
Carbon Usage: Undisclosed
REGION: Fair Play AVA (El Dorado County)
7350 Fairplay Rd
Somerset, CA 95684
(503) 497-0750
Daily 11:00-5:00
Element 79 Vineyards
Named after the atomic number for gold, Element 79 Vineyards was purchased in 2017 by Les and Sharon Heinsen as they transitioned from the Insurance business to winery owners. The 70 acre property in the heart of Fair Play has 22 acres of Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, Petite Syrah, and Viognier vines.
The wines here are a mix of the conventional and the unconventional. Consulting winemaker Scott Johnson has been making wine and beer in these parts and around the globe for years. He has extraordinary skill and is not afraid to experiment. As far as the conventional goes, we are big fans of the Syrah, the Cabernet Sauvignon, and the Estate Petite Syrah. As for the unconventional, such as a carbonic Zinfandel, a 50/50 Syrah/Viognier co-ferment, and a skin-contact Viognier, they are a lot of fun to try. There is likely to be very little agreement about which ones are hits and which ones are misses, but that's half the point.
The tasting room facilities are very nice and very different than what you expect from the road. There are excellent food and charcuterie offerings, and a hike through the lower vineyard to the upper one is delightful. Call ahead to arrange for a picnic.
9.00
Wine: 9.0 (Excellent)
Best sparkling wines in the Foothills, excellent still wines as well
Facilities: 9.0 (Excellent)
Delightful (and cool) cave, taste amongst the barrels
Hospitality: 9.0 (Excellent)
Charming owners/winemakers nearly always pouring
Reservations: Not required except large groups
Pet Policy: With permission only
Sustainability: Sustainable practices
Carbon Usage: Solar powered, naturally cooled
REGION: Fair Play AVA (El Dorado County)
7060 Fairplay Rd
Somerset, CA 95684
(503) 723-2879
Fri-Sun 11:00-5:00
Gwinllan Estate Winery & Vineyards
The name Gwinllan comes from the ancient Welsh word for vineyard and is an homage to the homeland of Gordon and Chris Pack who hail from England and Wales. After trying their hands at growing grapes in the South of England (before climate change and before such a thing was so chic), the Packs decided they wanted to find a more hospitable climate in which to start their winery. After tasting some Fair Play wines and discovering the beauty of the region, they purchased a perfectly situated 80-acre property in 2005. A cave was carved into the ground, acres of various vines were planted, and now truly world-class wines are flowing, and they are getting better every year as the vines mature.
Gordon and Chris have served as the winemakers since inception, but now they have some significant help. Their son Jonathan Pack went off to UC Davis Viticulture and Enology school and has returned to help run the vineyard and the cellar. Jonathan is emerging as one of the most sought-after winemaking experts in the region and is now the winemaker and/or consultant for many of the regions top and up-and-coming wineries.
The cave tastings are a treat. Chris and Gordon will regale you with their stories and delightful personalities while you taste through flights containing sparkling, white, rose, red, and dessert wines. All are of remarkable quality and complexity, but the sparkling wines, available in Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noir, and Rose styles, are worth the trip all by themselves.
9.00
Wine: 9.0 (Excellent)
Excellent wines now and getting better every year
Facilities: 9.5 (Exceptional)
Great views atop Mount Aukum, nice patio seating
Hospitality: 8.5 (Very good)
Very friendly staff
Reservations: Recommended
Pet Policy: Unknown, call ahead
Sustainability: Conventional farming practices
Carbon Usage: Undisclosed
REGION: Fair Play AVA (El Dorado County)
8761 Tower Rd
Somerset, CA 95684
(503) 957-7495
Fri-Sun 11:00-5:00
Kehret Vineyards
Kehret Vineyards is perched atop 2600 foot Mount Aukum, a mountain of granite rising about the fingers of foothills and offers 270 degree views that span from the high Sierras to the Coastal range. Bill and Bonnie Kehret (pronounced like the measurement of gold purity, a fortuitous name for winery owners in Gold Country!) bought the winery formerly known as Mount Aukum Winery in 2018.
Though beautifully situated, the winery was not in very good shape when purchased. Fortunately, the Kehrets have been remedying that. They have brought on Napa winemaker Steve Leveque (of HALL and Chalk Hill fame) to head up the transformation. The goal here is to make truly world-class wines that highlight the unique Foothills terroir. Steve is just beginning to learn the Foothills, but there are highly encouraging early signs of greatness already.
This winery had long survived on its location alone. A windy road to the mountain top winery and tasting room. Now, with the quality of the wines on their way to matching the view, Kehret Vineyards is sitting on the precipice of greatness.
9.17
Wine: 9.5 (Exceptional)
Intense and complex wines in several categories
Facilities: 9.0 (Excellent)
2 choices: Tasting Room in Camino, at Winery in Fair Play
Hospitality: 9.0 (Excellent)
Very friendly staff
Reservations: Suggested
Pet Policy: Welcome, on leash
Sustainability: Organic practices
Carbon Usage: Mostly solar powered
REGION: Fair Play AVA (El Dorado County)
7050 Fairplay Rd
Somerset, CA 95684
(503) 620-2785
Fri-Sun 11:00-5:00
Shadow Ranch Winery
Shadow Ranch has always made great wine, but few wineries in the Foothills have done so much in the last few years to upgrade their tasting experience.
Sam and Kimari Patterson bought the property and started their family-owned winery in 2006. An old 1888 farm house was converted into the tasting room. Sam had studied winemaking at UC Davis and had been working in and managing vineyards across the Foothills, so he was well equipped to run a winery and vineyard on his own.
Recently the farm house has been expanded and updated, and a wonderful patio provides a delightful spot to taste wine and enjoy music. The service has also greatly improved with friendly, knowledgeable pourers and nice pairing options.
Sam continues to farm 10 acres of estate vineyards that include Tempranillo, Grenache, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Sauvignon Blanc vines. He also sources from other vineyards he manages in the Sierra Foothills, including some vineyards in parts of the Foothills that are very different than Fair Play, making for a lot of interesting diversity in the wines.
9.00
Wine: 9.0 (Excellent)
Some wines that are world-class quality
Facilities: 9.5 (Exceptional)
The best view in Fair Play, if not all of the Foothills
Hospitality: 8.5 (Very good)
Very friendly and attentive staff
Reservations: Suggested
Pet Policy: Outside on leash
Sustainability: Sustainable practices
Carbon Usage: Solar powered
REGION: Fair Play AVA (El Dorado County)
8054 Fairplay Rd
Somerset, CA 95684
(503) 620-2220
Fri-Sun 11:00-5:00
Skinner Vineyards & Winery
Skinner is a story of old and new. The old is James Skinner, a Scottish immigrant pioneer who journeyed west during the Gold Rush and found gold. James leveraged his good fortune into the formation of the J. Skinner Native Wine and Brandy Company in 1861 in the town of Rescue on the western edge of El Dorado county. Fast forward to the new... and Mike and Carey Skinner’s serendipitous discovery of Mike’s ancestry and family history in 2006. The Skinners decided to re-establish the family business, and they bought vineyard land close to James’ original winery. Soon thereafter, they bought some of the most prized and beautiful land in Fair Play for their winery, tasting room, and second vineyard.
The winery itself is also a story of old and new. Early in the development, the Skinners hired upstart and highly-regarded winemaker Chris Pittenger to help design the winery, plan the vineyard, craft the wines, and develop a house style. After evaluating the climate and soils and researching the family heritage, it was decided that the varieties of the Rhone Valley and Southern France would be perfectly suited. Skinner quickly became a top-rated Rhone-style house and was named one of the Top 100 Wineries in the world by Wine & Spirits Magazine in 2017. At its height, many considered Skinner to be both the best wine and the best experience in the Foothills.
But alas, 2017 was to be final vintage for Chris as he and his family returned to Sonoma County. The winery has struggled to find its footing since. The Skinners decided to bring in a new winemaker from the outside rather than promote from within, and the gamble produced mixed results. The wine style went from exclusively Rhone style to a combination of wines that are a tribute to the 19th century wines of James Skinner and wines that are ultra modern. Some of the new wines proved to be winners, such as a very bright and fresh take on Grenache Blanc and a delicious Viognier Orange Wine, but as a whole the program seemed rudderless. At the same time, Skinner started shifting focus away from the Fair Play tasting experience to to a new facility near the original J. Skinner property at the base of the Foothills.
Momentary hiccups aside, the production facility and tasting room in Fair Play are of top-notch quality. New winemaker Seth Hunt is incredibly skilled with a sharp palate. He has been around Skinner long enough to have been part of both the old regime and the new, and he is taking the best of both. And for those of us that are fans of the original Skinner wines, there are still some of those available to purchase. (Unfortunately, that doesn't include any of The Best Grenache Ever Made). Whatever your taste, you'll enjoy it from a beautifully crafted tasting room that sits atop a ridgeline that overlooks the entire Fair Play region with distant views of the high Sierras.
Chaim Gur-Arieh is a world renowned food scientist, biochemist, and tinkerer. His notable contributions to the food world include Cap’n Crunch cereal, Pudding Cups, and Hidden Valley Ranch salad dressing. Needing a change and a new challenge, Chaim decided to turn his attention to winemaking. He and his wife Elisheva now make outstanding, complex, and extracted wines at their winery in El Dorado County and pour them at their tasting room in Amador County (see Amador page).
If you are looking for hands-on, small lot production in an out-of-the-way setting, Cedar Creek Ranch is the place for you. In 1997, Karen Wood discovered the ranch, planted grapes, and started making some of the best wines in the Foothills. Viognier, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Sangiovese, and (recently) Cabernet Sauvignon are all that is made here with the focus being on precision rather than variety. All are outstanding. Tastings by appointment only.
Cantiga Wineworks produces wines with minimal interventions other than the suppression (or at least the attempted suppression) of malolactic fermentation. Cantina has a strong cult following. We love a lot of their wines, the Semillon and Syrah perhaps the most.
Chateau d'Estienne requested that we not rate them. This is too bad, because they are producing outstanding wine in a beautiful setting. We have high hopes for the success of this winery, and you should check them out.
Conduit Wine and Divergent Vine at Gold Dust Vineyards atop Slug Gulch Ridge is one of the most exciting newcomers to the Fair Play region. After making wine and cider and establishing a label in the Bay Area, Aaron Bryan and Amy Krahe decided it was time to own some vineyard land and winemaking facilities of their own. Since they had fallen in love with the fruit they were sourcing from the Sierra Foothills, they decided to look here and found a vineyard and winery in Fair Play that they knew suited them. The property is so beautiful, they offer camping on the site, in the form of tent camping, RV camping, or glamping. Bryan and Amy believe strongly in responsible farming and minimal intervention wine making, and their wines are outstanding. This is a winery you are going to want to get to know.
Named after the highway three miles away, the E16 Winery tasting room is a gorgeous cave in the heart of Fair Play very close to the location of the original mining town. The winery specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that is sourced from the coast, but the local Syrah and Grenache Blanc are also excellent.
As leaders in the natural wine movement, Hank Beckmeyer and Caroline Hoel believe in minimal intervention wine making… no added yeast, no destemming, no new oak, no enzymes, no MLF inoculation, and hardly ever any sulfur. They are looking for unique and interesting expressions of their terroir. Tasting La Clarine Farms wines is an adventurous experience and is always rewarding. They have no tasting room. You can buy online or at certain retailers.
Mellowood is an established winery on Omo Ranch Rd that has gone through several ownership changes in the last decade. The newest owners, Karuga Kimani and Miriam Karuga, are the first Kenyan owners of a Foothills winery. We are excited to see what they do with this wonderful property.
Oakstone has a long history. It was started in 1997 by John and Susan Smith. After a fire in 2012, the winery was sold to Steve and Liz Ryan who had been working there as winemaker and business manager, respectively. In 2021, Steve and Liz sold the winery to the current owners, Courtney and Dustin Russell. The Russells wisely decided to promote Steve's winemaking assistant, Tyler LuCarelli, to winemaker. Tyler will allow for an easy transition while also bringing a fresh take. Oakstone is known for its diverse selection of award-winning, single-varietal wines made in small batches. Their Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the best in the Foothills, and the Zinfandel is a crowd-pleaser. Our favorites are some of the lesser-known varietals, like Mourvedre, Charbono, Carignane, Dolcetto, and Petit Verdot.
Perry Creek is one of the largest and most established wineries in Fair Play. They produce their own wines under several labels and also run one of the largest custom crush operations in the Foothills. The winery has been recently purchased, and we will be watching to see the developments.
Off of Grizzly Flats Road in a 250 acre canyon and several miles from the heart of Fair Play, Saluti Cellars is an oasis that is worth the trip for the beauty of the property alone. Known primarily for its Bed and Breakfast and Wedding venue, the wines are on an uptick and worthy of keeping a close watch on.